Grey wool Leotie Midi dress

It’s been a bit busy lately, so I’m massively behind on blogging… There are 5 semi written posts in draft. Must get around to it 😉

I’ll start with this one. The Leotie Midi Dress from Named Patterns was one of those patterns I had seen and was somewhat intrigued by when looking through their catalogue, but I hadn’t thought about buying it. I don’t actually know what it quite was that, all of a sudden, made me want this pattern. I bought it, printed it and cut the paper pattern in one evening…

Leotie is a fully lined midi dress with a low back (but not so low that your bra will show, which is awesome) and a really interesting yoke at the top that offers just so many ways of colour blocking.

As you can tell I didn’t make it quite like intended…

According to the table of sizes, I cut a size 38. And uncharacteristically for me, I actually made a muslin for the bodice. I thought this could go wrong easily and then my gorgeous fabric would be wasted. Good idea! Even though I am short waisted, I thought this was too short. As you can see in the photo below, I added 2.5cm to the front bodice and the side of the back bodice, grading to 5mm at the centre back, to make a sway back adjustment (also very much needed here). The muslin was also a tiny bit tight and I didn’t really want it quite that skin tight, especially with lining going in. So I added 5mm to the side seams, which meant adding 5mm to the sleeves as well. I didn’t want the sleeves to be bigger overall, so graded down to nothing quite quickly towards the sleeve hem (hope this makes sense). And for a change I actually remembered to adjust the lining pattern pieces too, usually I would just charge ahead and only notice afterwards. I wonder if it was the influence of reading and seeing everyone’s creations during Me-Made-May (this was made during May)… ?

Those changes worked out really well. I looooove the bodice part, soo awesome.

Probably a good time to talk about the fabric. This is a wool I bought from The Fabric Store about a year ago. It’s a nice light grey wool on one side and is woven through with shiny threads (polyester) from the other side. Perfect for a project like this. The top yoke is the none-shiny wool side and the rest of the dress uses the shiny side.

The back is just as amazing on this dress as the front.

As you can tell in the photos, this fabric didn’t press very well, wool with shiny polyester woven through on the right side is not conducive to heat… I’ll have to try and go at it a few more times with a clapper.

The instructions were really easy to follow and it came out really well I think. I did initially make the skirt as it was in the pattern, based it to the bodice and thought I looked like a little Michelin man at the bottom with some wide fabric draped around him. I think it is the stiffness of the fabric that made it look so hideous. So off came the skirt again and I recut the pieces using the lining pattern pieces. The lining does not have a dart at the front, so I added that in at the correct place, just guestimating how long it needed to be for me.

I always through that the original pattern was too long for me. This is a bit longer than the skirt piece without the additional strip at the bottom. Hits me just above the knee, my preferred length these days.

I love this dress, really nice. And with the lack silk lining (I realise I have no pictures of the inside), it is so nice an wearable. It was an itchy nightmare to try on unlined, as the shiny threads are so super scratchy….

So here is another winter going out dress, although with a colourful scarf and some fun tights, it is perfect for work too, not too dressy.

P.S.: Looking at the photos now, I really must insist that my tall other half crouches down a lot when he takes photos of me in the future, I look positively squat with short legs in these… not good 😉

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