Winter is coming – my new coat

I made a coat… a Pauline Alice Quart Coat, and it’s amazing.
I know, it’s not really on my list of things to sew for the Wardrobe Challenge, but I could not resist this pattern. And a coat was at the bottom of my list under if I have time… I guess time was just right.

Sitting on the bus one morning two week ago, I saw the pattern come up on one of the blogs I read, and I had to have it. As soon as I arrived at work I bought it and printed it later that day. Fabric was acquired the following weekend and I immediately dropped any other sewing plans…

Apologies for the dark photos, I had just added the last button and had to have a photo taken…

The pattern

The pattern printed nicely and didn’t waste too much paper.

The instructions were really good (I mostly used the extra tutorial download). The only thing I struggled with a bit was to fit the lining pleats with the main fabric pleats. It mostly fits, and it doesn’t distort the fall of the coat at all, so I may just leave it, but somehow they don’t really sit within each other properly. Anyway, minor thing.

The fit… 

I ended up cutting out a size 38 and made a few small adjustments.

I made the coat overall 4cm longer and the sleeves 3cm longer. I’m a bit taller than the pattern was intended for and I seem to have monkey arms… I think the longer length of both is much better for me. I also straightened the waist a little bit (I’m not quite as curvy), but I ended up taking out a bit more again in the waist at the end.

I made a muslin, which made me notice that I needed a bit more width in the shoulders, but less in the hips. So I added a centimetre in the back (and I ended up forgetting to add it to the front pieces, I don’t think it shows though… it seems to fit anyway…)

The fabric

I used a royal blue medium weight wool from The Fabric Store. It’s almost looks like felted, so it should repel water quite well. Initially I bought a cream and blue striped viscose lining, but while cleaning up my fabric closet, I found this gorgeous blue paisley cotton. I have no idea how long I’ve had it (going by the creases in it, I’ve had it for a while) or where I got it from. I know cotton is not really for lining, but it’s just too gorgeous and fits perfectly… And it is thin enough and smooth enough to work…

The construction

Initially I wasn’t sure whether I would really need to catch stitch all the seams to keep them flat, I thought ironing would be ok, but in the end I decided to do it all. And it is worth it! That was probably the one thing that took the longest of all. Here are my sleeves ready to set. And for some reason I had no difficulties at all to set these, not like the jersey blazer (which is still sitting on my dressform waiting for it’s second sleeve).

I made bound button holes 🙂 Another first time, and with the help of thebound button hole tutorial and facing tutorial on the website it worked like a treat. It is always a bit nerve wracking to cut into fabric, especially on the front, but all worked out beautifully, they are the same size and centred fairly well. It wasn’t all that hard and I love the look of them, so I might use this technique in the future.

This is the coat ready to join it’s lining… This was the first time I added shoulder pads and added support to the top of the sleeve, turned out very nice. And the instructions were really easy to follow.

As mentioned above, the only thing I struggled a little bit with getting the lining pleats to fold properly inside the fabric pleats, it’s not quite perfect.

All in all, this was a roaring success. I’ve worn it out for the past two days and it is just so comfortable, the high collar is perfect for our windy town. I’ve had my first compliment from a stranger in the elevator today…

Next up, a few merino tops/sweaters. Must sew a few more things from my list rather than being sidetracked by beautiful fancies (even though they are useful).

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